Two words: gelato flight. Two more words: iceberg cider. My day today revolved around hiking, history, and food.
I started my day at the Battery Cafe, where a lemon raspberry scone and iced latte provided fuel for my morning adventure: a hike up the North Head Trail to Signal Hill and on to Quidi Vidi Village. The North Head Trail hugs the base of Signal Hill and passes by “The Narrows”, the narrow entry to St. John’s Harbor between Signal Hill and Fort Amherst. It is a steep climb to the top of Signal Hill along ledges and up 264 stairs to the Cabot Tower at the top. Signal Hill got its name from being the site of the first transatlantic radio transmission. I walked around the top for a while and then continued on, following the Ladies’ Lookout Trail, which descends to the Cuckold’s Cove Trail. Once at the bottom of those two trails, it was a short walk over to Quidi Vidi Village.
Quidi Vidi’s claim to fame is the Quidi Vidi Brewery which brews iceberg beer. I skipped it since I don’t like beer, but don’t worry, I made up for it later. The little harbor is lined with fishing shacks and cottages and is quintessential coastal Canada.
I didn’t realize that it was another mile and half to walk back to my hotel from Quidi Vidi. By the time I got back, I was pooped. After a midday rest, I was off again and made my first stop at The Parlour, where they serve gelato flights. Yes, you read that right. Five small bowls of creamy, delicious gelato. I sampled peanut butter brownie, Irish cream, salted caramel, pistachio, and triple chocolate. I’ve never had an inclination to try pistachio ice cream before, but it was by far my favorite.
My afternoon destination was The Rooms, a cultural center reflecting the history of Newfoundland and Labrador. I knew what I was getting into, but I honestly couldn’t have been less interested in learning about history and culture this afternoon. The draw for me was the view, with huge windows and terraces overlooking the city. The museum itself is a mix of historical exhibits and art galleries spread over four floors surrounding an open atrium.
Once I had seen everything, I was ready for a meal. I headed to Yellowbelly Brewery for an iceberg cider. As it was explained to me, they mix iceberg water with apple juice and let it ferment. It was on the dry side and quite good. I paired it with salt and vinegar fish and chips, with poutine chips. It was a beautiful day to sit on the deck and enjoy the meal.
After dinner, and after about 8 miles of walking today, I was done. I went back to my hotel and made just one final trip up to the top of Signal Hill (by car this time!) to enjoy the evening light overlooking the city. I need to get to bed early since I will be up and at ‘em before dawn tomorrow, though I fear my morning plans may be thwarted by uncooperative weather.
Traveling with Laura 