I almost wimped out today. Almost. My plan was to hike from Monterosso to Vernazza, look around Vernazza for a while, then push on to Corniglia. My legs were protesting so much that I almost gave up and took the train from Vernazza to Corniglia. But like the trouper that I am, I forced myself to continue on and put more mileage on my hiking shoes.
I started out from Monterosso around 9:00 AM, after a glorious 10 hours of sleep and a filling breakfast. When they say the trail along the coast (the Sentiero Azzurro) is steep, what they really mean is that you will climb hundreds of stairs and feel like you’re going to die. The trail is basically one long, steep climb up from Monterosso, a short up and down area in the middle, and then one long, steep climb back down into Vernazza. It was torture but the views up and down the coast were what kept me going, especially when you could start seeing Vernazza in the distance.
Climbing down into Vernazza, you see the postcard view of the village from above. The actual town, like Monterosso, is centered along a main road (Via Roma) with steep stairways climbing off it. The town was crowded, so I walked around for a few minutes, walked out onto the breakwater, climbed up to Castello Doria for 180 degree views, and waited in a 20-minute long line to use the bathroom before setting off again to Corniglia.
The hike from Vernazza to Corniglia felt *slightly* less strenuous, likely because the steepest parts were interspersed by fairly level sections. And at just about the halfway point: an oasis. Right along the trail lies Bar Gabbiano, serving drinks, sandwiches, and dessert treats. I ordered a salami and cheese sandwich on focaccia and a lemon slushy with fresh orange juice. Just up the hill from the restaurant is their outdoor terrace with a view of Corniglia off in the distance and Manarola beyond. It was the perfect place to relax and give my tired legs a rest.
Corniglia feels like the forgotten middle child. And it is, literally, in the middle of the five Cinque Terre villages. Perched high up on a hill (as opposed to directly on the water like the other four), Corniglia sees fewer tourists and feels less crowded than the other two villages I’ve seen so far.
Unfortunately, I was so tired and done from all the hiking (plus my legs were burning) that I didn’t appreciate the village as much as I could have. I had a gelato from Alberto Gelateria (one scoop of lemon basil and one scoop of honey), walked out to the belvedere, and then called it a day. The walk down to Corniglia train station is 385 steps down from the town. My legs were complaining the entire time. The train whisked me back to Monterosso in about 15 minutes’ time.
On the way back to my hotel, I stopped and picked up a slice of focaccia pizza margherita, a Mars bar, and a sparkling lemon soda. I took a shower and capped off my day with dinner on the balcony.
Traveling with Laura 