Traveling with Laura

Today found me touring a world-renowned museum, sipping one of Paris’ best hot chocolates, wandering streets and alleys in the Latin Quarter and Saint-Germain-des-Prés, strolling the Luxembourg gardens, and dining at a restaurant that has just one dinner item on the menu. Read on to learn about the highlights of my last day in Paris.

Les Antiquaires This little café turns on the charm with its dark wood tones and antiques. It was the perfect place to enjoy a pain au chocolat, hot chocolate, and orange juice while I watched the people, cars, and bicycles pass by on the street. While I certainly enjoy my breakfast pastries, I have to say that I’m getting a little tired of the same thing for breakfast every day. 

Musée d’Orsay The Orsay Museum is situated in an old train station (Gare d’Orsay) and contains artwork from 1848 to 1914. When you first enter, you are treated to an open view down what was the main terminal of the train station and now contains a statue gallery. I was feeling proud of myself as I listened to Rick Steves’ audio guide and I walked around admiring the beauty and realism artwork. “I must really be coming around to museums,” I thought to myself. That lasted about 30 minutes. By then I was feeling overwhelmed by artwork and the crowds were driving me crazy. I had to wait behind people just to see the artwork and then wait again to read about it. The Monet and Van Gogh galleries? Forget it. I knew I was finished then. I was there for about 3 hours, so at least I got my money’s worth.

La Jacobine A small restaurant tucked away on a small passageway off Rue Saint-André des Artes, La Jacobine is well known for its hot chocolate and I had to try some, along with a tarte tatin, before leaving Paris. I recently learned that the sign of a good (European) hot chocolate is if it coats your spoon without dripping off. This one certainly did that, although it took me a while to get through the tower of whipped cream to the drink itself!

The Latin Quarter and Saint-Germain-des-Prés On each of my two previous visits to Paris, I had my picture taken standing on the same patch of grass in Square René-Viviani. An update for 2023 was in order and that was my next destination after “lunch”. I found someone to take my picture fairly quickly and was then able to sit and enjoy the square and flowers for a few minutes. I wandered through the streets of the Latin Quarter, Saint-Germain-des-Prés, and Luxembourg gardens on the way back to my hotel. 

I should also note that today was the first time I have been exposed to any of the rioting/protesting taking place in Paris. When I was leaving the square, there was a protest march taking place. I was able to see it as they crossed over the Pont Saint-Michel bearing flags and torches. I have also seen a very heavy police/military presence both yesterday afternoon and today. I didn’t feel unsafe, just a bit disconcerted seeing all of the police and military carrying assault weapons around.

Le Relais de L’Entrecôte Can you imagine a restaurant with just one item on the menu (aside from drinks and dessert)? Enter Le Relais de L’Entrecôte. There is one choice on the menu: steak frites. Your only option is whether you want it rare or medium. That’s it. I waited over an hour in line for a table, but every bite was worth it. The steak was very tender, and the light pepper sauce was to die for. Having only eaten a croissant and dessert today, I didn’t realize quite how hungry I was until I started eating. While I was waiting for my table to be cleared, a waitress appeared and loaded up my plate with a second helping. Don’t mind if I do! Of course, I had to try out the crème brûlée for dessert… it was so light and creamy, I’m sure there weren’t many calories at all!

After dinner, I headed back to my hotel, passing the Church of Saint-Germain-des-Prés for the last time. It’s bittersweet because I have really enjoyed Paris, but I’m also done with cities for a while and ready to be back home for the weekend. Au revoir, Paris!