Today’s weather certainly didn’t cooperate with my outdoor plans for the day. I couldn’t decide what to do this morning because in the span of time it took me to use the bathroom and put my laptop away, it went from pretty clouds hanging over the mountains to torrential downpour. After much internal debate, I decided to just go with my original plan for the day and head to the Dokumentation Obersalzberg, a museum/archives dedicated to Hitler’s use of the Obersalzberg region (the area around Berchtesgaden) as a “getaway” and propaganda location during his reign. I downloaded the audio guide to my phone before I left my hotel and found the whole exhibit fascinating, aside from the crowds thanks to the crummy weather. Hitler basically started using the area as a vacation spot and eventually turned it into his Nazi headquarters, forcing out all of the other landowners. During his visits there, he used the opportunity to have pictures taken against the mountain backdrop to let his people know that all was well in Germany.
After the museum, I decided to press on with my plans for the day and head up to Hitler’s Eagle’s Nest (Kehlsteinhaus). Today, the building is a restaurant, but unless you plan to eat, the draw is to the view. The clouds made me question my decision, but it wasn’t raining and there were a couple of breaks of blue sky. Wow! About 5 minutes into the bus ride up, the views opened up and we were high up overlooking the Alps. From the upper bus terminal you can either hike up the rest of the way or ride the elevator. I hiked the 20 minutes up to the top and as I got there the sun started coming out around the clouds. It was beautiful, with some clouds still hanging on the mountains and the clouds below moving through the valleys. There is a small exhibit in the building but most of it is a restaurant. It was a surreal feeling to be looking out the same windows Hitler looked out of. From the building, you can climb a short distance further to a view overlooking the Eagle’s Nest with a large wooden cross.
Next stop: afternoon snack/indulgence. I am going to need a serious break from carbs when I get home! I think that’s all I’ve eaten since I got here. Gasthaus Windbeutalbaron was just a short drive from the parking lot at the Eagle’s Nest, and I knew from pictures that it had to be squeezed into my visit here. Two words: cream puffs. Not just your ordinary “pop it in your mouth” cream puffs either. Huge, delectable pieces of soft, chewy pastry filled with all possible toppings imaginable. I should mention that normally the deck is the place to be with its commanding views of the Alps. However, the clouds were returning and the tables were still wet from the earlier rain. So I was seated with an older German couple inside. She had ordered a cream puff with eggnog. I immediately decided I wanted that too. Then changed my mind to chocolate. Then the waitress suggested I could do both. Oh heavenly tower of bliss! (Well, almost bliss. The eggnog turned out to be either very heavily spiked or eggnog liqueur. Too strong for my taste, but the chocolate made up for it!)
My final afternoon stop was at Wallfahrtskirche Maria Gern, a small church in the most beautiful setting of Maria Gern, a little hamlet outside of Berchtesgaden. From up the road, you have a beautiful view looking down on the church with the mountains behind. I took some pictures (including the sheep out front) and then tried the door handle. Surprise! It was open, and inside was a breathtaking church. I wouldn’t have expected the intricate ceiling detail and paintings in such a small building.
I came back to my hotel for a short while before heading to Bräustüberl Berchtesgaden, part of the Hofbrauhaus Berchtesgaden (no connection to the one in Munich). Since communal tables are big here, I ended up sitting with a woman who is a fellow teacher from San Diego and is traveling around Germany after teaching English in India. She had also visited the Eagle’s Nest today and was headed to the same concert I was planning to attend. We ended up walking over and sitting together to enjoy the Young Voices Toronto. The music was mostly a capella and the acoustics allowed their small voices to fill the church. Tomorrow’s forecast is calling for more rain, but I’m determined to power on with my plans once again!
Traveling with Laura 