Often called one of the most dangerous hikes in the U.S., Angels Landing is not for the faint of heart, nor for those with a fear of heights. I’m not usually much of a thrill seeker, but guess what I did today? Read on to learn about what is probably my most adventurous vacation experience to date.
I watched the videos, read the firsthand accounts, and still decided to enter the lottery for a permit to hike this iconic Zion peak. Angels Landing has become so popular that the National Park Service has instituted a permit system to manage the crowds on the trail. Since I missed out on the window to apply back in January, I had to try for a day-before pass yesterday. Basically, you sign up online, pay $6 to enter the lottery, and wait until 4PM to learn if you got a permit or not. Part of me almost wished I didn’t get the permit because then the final decision about whether or not to do the hike would have been out of my hands. Alas, a little before 4PM I got the email saying I was successful in my attempt. So Angels Landing it was.
I awoke with nervous excitement/anticipation this morning. The hike is 2.5 miles to the top of Angels Landing, and includes almost 1,500 feet of elevation gain. The first 2 miles take you to Scout Lookout before you need the permit to continue. I knew there would be no shame in turning back if I changed my mind once I got that far, but I also knew I would be disappointed if I went that far and didn’t make it all the way. Spoiler alert: I made it to the top and it was amazing!
I got to the Visitor Center in time to get the first shuttle into the park at 7AM. The trail to Angels Landing crosses the Virgin River, makes a gradual ascent, and then it is a steep incline almost the whole way up.
After the initial climb, the trail enters Refrigerator Canyon, so named for its cool temperatures as it is in the shade almost all day. After the canyon, the trail climbs Walter’s Wiggles, a series of 21 switchbacks leading to Scout Lookout. The view was incredible, and if I hadn’t gotten a permit to Angels Landing, I would have been happy to have made it that far.
The final 0.5 miles to Angel’s Landing is often called the “chain section” because there are chains built into the rock walls to help with the climb. Some places are barely 5 feet wide with sheer cliff drop offs on either side. I knew I needed to focus on the path in front of me and not think too much about looking down if I was going to make it. A young couple was with me most of the way and we kept encouraging each other to keep going. The trail was harrowing at times as we navigated sheer cliffs and steep rock walls. Thankfully, we got such an early start that we didn’t have to navigate around the people coming down on the way up.
My motto for the day was “slow and steady”. I focused on one small section at a time going up the final ascent. I knew if I turned back at any point I would probably not have the chance to do this again. While most places had chains, there were a few spots without and some wider areas to stop and rest. In a few spots, I had to pull myself up with the chain because the slopes were so steep!
Before I knew it, I came to the top of the last chain and the trail leveled out across the flat top of Angels Landing. I let myself breathe and take in the 360 degree views. I felt exhilarated looking down at the entire canyon from above. I staked out a rock and sat for about 25 minutes before heading back down. Three chipmunks kept me company while I enjoyed a granola bar and the view.
Going down was just as hard, but I had no fear of looking over the side at this point. I did some butt sliding and chain grabbing most of the way, but made it back to Scout Lookout. I knew the climb down from there would be grueling on my legs and it was. I will definitely pay for this tomorrow. But was it worth it? Absolutely yes!
Since I hadn’t gotten enough exercise for the day, I took the 0.5 mile Grotto Trail over to the Zion Lodge for lunch. I was starving. The hot dog and French fries weren’t terribly exciting, but I was glad for the rest. After lunch, I sat and enjoyed the shade on the lawn and the cool breeze in front of the lodge for a while.
I took the shuttle to the end of the canyon at the Temple of Sinawava, walked around a little by the water, and called it a day. Heading back to the hotel, I picked up a charcuterie plate at the grocery store for dinner and enjoyed it on the balcony listening to the river flow and birds chirp. I capped the day off with a little book reading by the pool. It was a good day.
Traveling with Laura 