“Work Makes You Free”. Those haunting words greet you at the entrance to the Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial Site, just 10 short miles outside of Munich. Visiting Dachau during my trip to Munich had long been on my must-do list. I’m not much of a history buff, but World War II and the Holocaust have always fascinated me.
The day started off with blue skies and sun, a stark contrast to the realities of Dachau, where I spent the morning learning about the first of many such concentration camps established by the Nazi regime throughout Europe. Several of the buildings have been rebuilt since the camp’s liberation due to their poor condition, but there are several original buildings too. From the words that greet you upon entry to the words at the end of the memorial – “Never Again” – the site is a living memorial to those who lost their lives at Dachau between 1933 and 1945 and to those who somehow struggled and survived. It’s hard to believe that just a couple of miles away is a town that had no idea of the horrors taking place on its own doorstep.
There are really two parts to the memorial: the museum and the barracks. The museum tells the story of how the Nazi party came into power after World War I, how Dachau was built, the living conditions, its eventual liberation, and its repurposing as a Nazi prison for those awaiting persecution as war criminals. There are two rebuilt barracks as well as the cement footprints of 30 other barracks surrounded by seven guard towers and razor wire fencing. At the far end of the complex are five religious memorials as well as the crematorium and (unused) gas chamber. It was incredible to see and a lot to take in, but it was well worth the visit.
When I got back to Munich, I was hungry. I had planned to eat at another biergarten, but a lack of tables without a “reserved” sign caused me to rethink my plans. I ended up at Ratskeller in the courtyard of the New Town Hall. Though just a short walk from the busy Marienplatz, it was quiet and the pork schweinebraten, apple strudel, and blackberry cider were delicious. Tomorrow’s adventure will be picking up a rental car and driving to the Bavarian Alps!
Traveling with Laura 